Maximilian Semsch X Donau

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I was allowed to spend the night in a tent right at the hydrological source of the Danube, which at that time was still called Breg. The Dold family runs the beautiful Kolmenhof mountain guesthouse at the source of the Danube, which is worth a visit in itself. From the source, it's a rapid descent to Furtwangen, then along the Breg cycle path to pretty Donaueschingen, the starting point of the Danube Cycle Path. Another place I've never visited before. 
I arrived in Mühlheim an der Donau in the early evening via the Danube sinkholes near Immendingen. A charming little town, perched high above the Danube, with a fantastic view. 
The highlight of the day was certainly the last 5-6 km on the way to the Jägerhaus (a detached hut in the middle of the Danube Valley), as from here, the Danube winds its way through towering limestone cliffs for almost 40 km. The crowning finale was the picturesque sunset...

Since I had a lot of sun on the first day, I was quite glad that it was cloudy in the morning. From my accommodation, it was only three kilometers to Beuron Monastery, which is impressively situated between the limestone cliffs in the Danube Valley. I spent almost two hours exploring the monastery with Father Sebastian. It was incredibly interesting to immerse myself in the daily life of the monks. Recounting everything here would go beyond the scope of this article; just a little story I learned. Have you ever wondered where the saying "Klappe patte, o'ernst quacht's" comes from? The saying dates back to the pious Middle Ages. It goes back to the time when folding seats were installed in the choir stalls of churches, which were supposed to be folded down as quietly as possible. Anyone who dropped the folding seats while folding them down caused quite a racket and incurred the wrath of the church dignitaries due to the resulting noise. They reprimanded the poor sinner with the words: "Shut up!"

On the way to Sigmaringen, I couldn't stop marveling. The scenery that unfolded before me took my breath away, and I only managed to get a few meters before I had to stop again to get my camera out. The next highlight in Sigmaringen: Sigmaringen Castle, a former royal residence of the Hohenzollern family, towers high above the town.

After Sigmaringen, the landscape widens and I left the limestone formations behind me. I continued on to Mengen, where I took a guided tour of the Gaggli Pasta House and the factory. As an old "Sendung mit der Maus" fan, I walked through the factory with shining, childlike eyes.

At the end of the day we went to Seelen-Schorsch in Soul HouseA must-do if you're hungry. 
For all non-Swabians: The Seele is a baguette-like white bread pastry made from spelt, which originates from Upper Swabia...

After a quick breakfast, we set off for an hour-long tour through Mengen. The highlight of the tour was my city guide, Rüdiger Hartmann, who introduced himself with these words: 
"Hello, I'm Rüdiger, a city guide in Mengen. I'm not the best city guide, but I'm the only one!" 
So you can imagine it was a very entertaining hour in the city. After the first few days, the route was certainly not as breathtaking as the previous kilometers, but it was still very worth seeing. The stage passed through picturesque towns like Riedlingen and Munderkingen. I think I saw around 50 storks that day alone.

The stage ended in the beer culture town of Ehingen, with an overnight stay in the charming Beer Culture Hotel (Wi-Fi registration: User: Beer; PW: Beer).

Brewmaster Michael Miller gave me a fascinating insight into the art of brewing beer. Among other things, I learned that some beers require a maturation process of over a year. In addition to a wide variety of beers, Michael also produces beer liqueur, beer jelly (for breakfast), beer vinegar, and beer cosmetics (like shampoo or soap). 
In the evening we watched Croatia reach the final and there was even a honking car parade through the city (sounded like three or four cars).
Since I'm still cycling through Croatia during the trip, I hope they win the final now...

Immediately after breakfast, I visited the Konvikt, a former Benedictine college, for an hour.

During the day I cycled with Johannes from Blaubeuren, who accompanied me throughout the day and with whom I was allowed to stay overnight.

The Hohler Fels karst cave is located about one kilometer east of the town center of Schelklingen (Alb-Donau district). Since the 19th century, it has been one of the most important Upper Paleolithic archaeological sites in Central Europe, and I was able to observe the archaeologists at work. Neanderthals were already living in this cave 80.000 years ago.

The most significant find in the cave was certainly the Venus. This is an approximately six-centimeter-tall Venus figure carved from mammoth ivory, which was discovered during excavations in the cave in September 2008.
The figure is approximately 40.000 years old and can be viewed in the Urmu (Prehistoric Museum Blaubeuren).
This makes the Venus of Hohlefels one of the world’s oldest depictions of the human body.

In the evening, we continued through the truly beautiful town of Blaubeuren. The highlight was certainly the Blautopf. The Blautopf is known for the more or less intense, but always strikingly blue color of its water, depending on the light. A gigantic cave system stretches beneath the Blautopf. Currently, 14 kilometers have been discovered, but researchers estimate it is many more.

My tip: At Urmu, a 15-minute film about the exploration of the cave is playing on a continuous loop. Be sure to watch it!

It was the shortest cycling day so far. From my private accommodation in Blaubeuren it was only 20 km to the Two-country city of Ulm/Neu-Ulm.
My tip: if you're on the Danube Cycle Path, definitely take the detour via Blaubeuren, it's worth it.
Arriving in Ulm, I also met my esteemed colleague Matthias von TravelTelling, which I was on the road with all day.
Ulm is known for its Gothic cathedral, whose spire, at 161,53 meters, is the tallest in the world—a full four meters higher than Cologne Cathedral. 
To be precise, when you think of Ulm, you also have to mention Neu-Ulm. While Ulm is located in Baden-Württemberg, Neu-Ulm is already in Bavaria. The Danube River forms the border between the two, of course. 
I was particularly impressed by the fishing and tanning district. Visitors can expect a wealth of alleyways, small bridges, and, of course, an abundance of half-timbered houses. And the world's most crooked hotel, which even has an entry in the Guinness Book of Records.
I had planned my arrival well, as the Danube Festival was taking place in both Ulm and Neu-Ulm. In the evening, we went kayaking on the Danube and through the city. We even saw beavers, though unfortunately, no photos to prove it, as the beavers left too quickly.

My highlight of the day was a visit to Birdly Ulm (https://www.ulmstories.de/de/der-traum-vom-fliegen/The full-body flight simulator will get anyone taking off: Intuitively and naturally, you control the speed and direction of your flight by flapping and positioning your wings, constantly discovering new things in Ulm's old town from 1890. This was my first VR experience. I knew the whole time that I was only wearing glasses and in a dark room, but all my senses were still so well deceived that I felt dizzy after the three-minute flight. Cost: €3. Fully booked four weeks in advance on weekends...

After a quick coffee with Matthias, I went with Dr. Briechle-Mäck through the Donaumoos, which is the largest contiguous wetland in southern Germany, located between Ulm and Donauwörth.

Arriving in Günzburg, I did not miss the opportunity to LEGOLAND Germany to visit. Even as a little boy, I was fascinated by Lego. There's this story about the time I got new Lego for Christmas and built so much that I had to go to the hospital the next day with a blood blister on my finger.
Although I was the only adult without children, as a child myself, I accompanied myself. Various cities were recreated here using over 25 million Lego bricks.

Dark clouds were visible on the horizon as I set off for Dillingen, but I didn't see a single drop. Once I arrived in town, I met up with Hartmann Markus, who showed me around. The former castle now houses the tax office, and many rooms are not open to the public. It was a good thing we had a member of staff with a key. This allowed us to enter the castle tower and, most importantly, the secret passages beneath the castle; even my tour guide had never been there before. During sieges, goods could be brought into the city via the tunnel.

My personal highlight was the town's Golden Hall. In 1549, Cardinal Otto Truchseß von Waldburg founded a "Hohe Schule" (High School) in Dillingen to educate his Catholic clergy. This was elevated to a university by Pope Julius III in 1551. When the new academy building was constructed in 1688/89, a congregation hall was established on the upper floor, which was decorated in the magnificent styles of the late Rococo period between 1761 and 64.

And to round off the day, I went to the street artists' festival for a beer. It felt like the whole city was out and about. Exhausted, I was in bed at 22 p.m. and fell asleep immediately...

In the morning, Markus picked me up in Dillingen, and he accompanied me for the next two days. We explored the town of Donauwörth together. The town is located in the Nördlinger Ries. The almost circular, flat Ries stands out strikingly against the hilly landscape of the Alb. It wasn't until 1960 that it was proven that these were the remains of an approximately 14,6 million-year-old impact crater formed during the Ries event. The Ries is one of the best-preserved large impact craters on Earth. 
Since it was the World Cup final, we had to sprint to be in front of the TV in time for kickoff. It's a shame Croatia didn't make it...

After a hearty breakfast, Markus and I set off for Neuburg an der Donau. Where we met up with Achim from Ebike-Maass The magnificent castle facade with its two striking round towers can be seen from afar. The city is considered one of the most beautiful Renaissance cities in Bavaria.

The route from Neuburg to Ingolstadt is also breathtaking, as it runs through the Danube floodplains. For approximately 20 km, it is one of the most important floodplain forest areas on the German Danube. The floodplain forests are home to an exceptionally high number of animal and plant species, from beavers to kingfishers. My tip: A stop at the Danube Floodplain Information Center is worthwhile.

Arriving in Ingolstadt we went directly to RADHAUS IngolstadtI've given countless lectures here, and a visit was a must. I spent 90 minutes with the team exploring Ingolstadt. Fritz Reischl (Managing Director of Radhaus) surprised me with his inexhaustible knowledge of the city and its history. Afterward, we fired up the barbecue, and Achim and I decided to cycle another 30 km to Bad Gögging, as we were continuing our journey from there the next morning. This allowed us to sleep an extra hour...

In the morning we went together with Achim Maass first of all to relax in the Limes-Therme including calf massage.

Doris then led us first through a former Roman bath and then through a fort. The Roman fort in Eining near Neustadt an der Donau is a former cohort fort and part of the UNESCO World Heritage Limes. The remains of the buildings and fortifications demonstrate the changing strategies used by Roman soldiers to secure the northern border of the Roman Empire for almost 400 years. 
Incidentally, the Romans were the first to invent underfloor heating.

Ten kilometers later, we reached the picturesque Weltenburg Monastery. It lies above the Danube Gorge, in a loop of the Danube. After our morning program, we needed to fortify ourselves in the beer garden. Since the bike path leaves the Danube at this point and there's no view of the Danube Gorge, we decided to take a raft (a very flat boat) for a few kilometers. The gorge is a narrow section of the Danube Valley, with steep cliffs rising up on both sides.

My tip: Definitely invest the 6€ (bike and passenger) for the raft trip, it's worth it!
After getting out, there was a short, steep climb for two or three kilometers and then we found ourselves in front of the Liberation Hall with a fantastic view of the Danube Gorge.

The Hall of Liberation is a monument located on the Michelsberg above the town of Kelheim. Commissioned by King Ludwig I, this memorial commemorates the victorious battles against Napoleon in the Wars of Liberation of 1813-1815 and was completed in 1863. Thirty-four goddesses of victory adorn the interior of the hall. The tour extends over three levels and is very worthwhile.

By the time we arrived in Regensburg, it was already 9:30. We had a quick beer together and then went to bed. Because the next day, we were going to explore Regensburg...

First thing in the morning at 08:XNUMX a.m., I started my tour of St. Emmeram Castle, also known as Thurn and Taxis Castle, located in the heart of the city. The castle was once a monastery. Visitors can visit the castle's state rooms, featuring tapestries from the Brussels period and interior furnishings from the Thurn and Taxis Palace in Frankfurt am Main. Part of the cloister and adjacent buildings from the oldest part of the monastery have been preserved.

Afterwards, I went on a guided tour through the old town. During my tour of Germany, I had already been to Regensburg and I've now fallen completely in love. Regensburg has one of the best-preserved medieval old towns, and practically the entire old town is a listed building. Strolling through narrow streets makes you feel like you're in Italy. In 2016, the Stone Bridge was still completely covered in scaffolding, but the renovation work is now almost complete. The Stone Bridge is, alongside Regensburg Cathedral, the city's most important landmark. With construction beginning in 1135, it is the oldest surviving bridge in Germany and is considered a masterpiece of medieval architecture. When it opened, it was the only bridge over the Danube between Ulm and Vienna, and the only one made of stone; all other Danube bridges were made of wood.

I leisurely continued on to Straubing, where I visited the Gäuboden Museum. The Romans were very active in the area, and in 1950, the "Roman Treasure" was discovered during excavations. Face helmets, greaves, and horse foreheads, typical of Roman parade armor, were discovered in a copper cauldron. Statuettes, weapons, and tools were also among the finds. The Straubing Roman Treasure is truly one of the most unique of its kind.

In Deggendorf I met briefly at the beach bar with Her Highness, the Danube Queen, who then explained to me that I had just ridden over the longest bicycle bridge (456 meters) in Europe.

I stayed overnight on Wild-Berghof Buchet in the Hyt, a lovingly converted trailer that can accommodate up to four people. And for dinner, there was the world's best venison goulash from our own farm...

In the morning, I walked through Deggendorf's old town with "Duchess Agnes." Among other things, I learned about the dumpling thrower. In 1266, the city was besieged (by Ottokar of Bohemia), and the Bohemians tried to starve the city out by simply waiting until the city's supplies ran out. When, after weeks of waiting and mutual surveillance, food supplies had indeed become scarce, an enemy spy climbed the city wall. As soon as the Bohemian peered over the wall, expecting to find weakened defenders, a large dumpling hit him in the face, causing him to lose his footing and fall into the city moat. A caring wife, who wanted to bring her husband dumplings made from leftover food, onto the city wall, noticed the spy and acted quickly. Their throw saved the city from further siege and surrender, as the scout had to truthfully report that the city's inhabitants still had enough food to throw. Ottokar's troops withdrew in resignation.

The route to Passau was certainly not the most spectacular of the trip, but I can't expect to drive through natural wonders every day for 3.000 km.

After almost three hours of driving, I arrived in the three-river city of Passau. This is where the Inn, Ilz, and Danube rivers converge. Given its width and water volume, the river should actually be called the Inn from Passau onward. However, since the Danube is almost 100 km longer than the Inn at the confluence, the river is called the Danube.

With three rivers, it's easy to imagine that the city frequently has to contend with flooding, especially in the old town. The 2013 flood in Passau was the second-worst flood disaster in the city's history. The old town and other parts of the city center were extensively flooded. The Danube's highest level of 3 meters, measured on the evening of June 12,89, significantly exceeded the so-called flood of the century of 1954 (12,2 meters) and remained only just below the highest level of the flood of 1501 (approximately 13,2 meters); a normal water level of up to 4,50 meters would have been normal for the time of year.

In the evening, we went on a boat trip through Passau with Florian Noé. He is one of the city's twelve "Apostles" fishermen. In the 12 Apostles fishing waters, twelve fishermen, known as the Twelve Apostles, have exclusive fishing rights. This also means that they can decide for themselves whether to pass on this privilege or who will succeed them, even though the fishing waters belong to the Holy Spirit Foundation.

The Apostle Fishermen in Passau can look back on a 450-year history. Fishing rights are always passed on to the eldest son; if there is no successor in the line, the remaining eleven choose a 12th fisherman. By the time I got to bed, it was already 23 p.m., my last night in Germany, as I was due to reach Austria the next day.

Special thanks to the team of German Danube Working Group, who actively supported me on the stage through Germany!

..the entire journey along the Danube can be Facebook be followed :)